Regular and competent lawn mowing is a must if you want to have a well-groomed lawn. Lawn grass grows at a temperature of +5 degrees or higher. Focus on this by calculating the time of the first mowing in spring and the last mowing in autumn. Gardener landscape maintenance
During the first mowing in spring, set the mower blade to the highest level. With the onset of steady heat, the grass grows more intensively and you can already mow more frequently (once a week) and shorter, but not shorter than 5 cm. In hot weather, lawn growth slows down, especially on sunny lawns. During this time, mow less frequently (once every 2-3 weeks), mow a little by disconnecting the mower basket. The mowed grass will be evenly distributed over the lawn and will serve as a natural fertiliser and mulching material to protect the lawn from sunburns and excess moisture loss. Remains of mown grass will soon disappear into the lawn or be picked up by the mower during the next mowing operation.
Mowing is always better in dry weather. Mowed grass can be added to the compost pit and interspersed with other components only if you have not used herbicides for at least 2-3 weeks before mowing. Lawn mowing that is too short contributes to root exposure, soil drying and general weakening of the grass. Too long lawn mowing weakens the overground part of the grass. A general rule of thumb is that you should cut less grass but mow more often. To achieve beautiful stripes or other natural lawn patterns, change the direction of travel with the mower.
After mowing the main lawn, carefully mow the grass at the edges with a lawn shear or lawn trimmer.
Lawn care in spring
In spring, at the very beginning of the season, carry out a lawn treatment that includes weeding, scarifying (cleaning, felt removal from dry grass and moss), aeration (piercing of compacted soil), trench repair, lawn edging, top dressing, surface levelling and mulching (grounding) of the lawn with a mixture of light garden soil and sand.
Lawn care: scarifying
Start spring lawn care by removing perennial rhizome weeds (dandelion, daisy, plantain, etc.) and mechanical cleaning. Gently dig up or pry the rhizome weeds with a hauler and pull them out, trying to remove the root completely from the ground. To clean small lawns, use a hard (metal) fan rake, which will help to warm up the dried leaves and debris gathered during the winter, as well as to comb out moss and a layer of dry grass (“felt”), which is formed on the surface of the lawn. All this will go into the compost. On large lawns, use special scarifiers, such as a lawn cleaner (see photo at the top of the page) or a special lawn mower attachment. After scarifying, moisture, air and fertiliser will be easier to pass to the roots of the grass without lingering on the surface of the lawn.
Lawn care: aeration and sand application
After scarifying the lawn, aerate the topsoil to a depth of 10-15 cm. Aeration provides access to air, water and fertilizer to the roots of the grass and is especially important on heavy and clayey soils, in places of stagnation of water or on lawns, which are particularly intensively used. On small lawns, use garden forks or special shoes with spikes for aeration. On large lawns and in particularly neglected cases, a lawn aerator may be necessary to remove the soil from the holes made. After aeration, apply a layer of coarse sand to the surface of the lawn, which will fill the holes and ensure better water permeability of the ground. We usually rent a scarifier and a lawn aerator a couple of times a year for spring and autumn treatment of our lawn.