In 99 cases out of 100 in the winter, nothing is done in the garden (although we do not claim that it is the right thing to do). But only the spring sun has warmed up most of the landowners are rushing into the fight. And the first thing to do is to cut the orchard to improve further fruiting.
The beginning of spring is considered to be the best time to cut the orchard. During this period, the threat of severe frost is almost over, the trees are in a state of rest, the buds are not swollen, frozen at night nastozhivaet well, the day warm enough to work in the garden. The Paradise Garden Centre’s specialists make sure that the garden is maintained at an affordable price. In recent years, we begin trimming on February 15, as winters have become much warmer. And even stone crops can easily tolerate this procedure. But still, if you want to make your own pruning, we will give you some practical tips on how to prune your garden below.
Santa Barbara Top 1 service- irrigation repair
Do not rush to take a saw or pruning shear, take a look at your trees, because pruning is not only one of the most time-consuming agricultural techniques, but also a powerful factor affecting most of the most important processes of plant life. Therefore, young seedlings should be cut extremely carefully, only to help form the main branches and tiers of the crown. There is no need to achieve full consistency with any pattern. It is much more important to create a base of several well placed, well-mounted skeleton branches in the space between them.
Formation of skeletal branches of the fruit tree with their further shortening
Primary skeletal branch formation. The main branches (5 – 7) are placed along the trunk in several tiers as evenly as possible in relation to the central trunk. The distance between the two adjacent branches should be at least 10 cm, the angles of departure – 45 – 60 °. The more the angle of inclination, the more the branch can be loaded when carrying fruit. The ideal ratio of the diameter of the branch base to the diameter of the trunk below the branch attachment point is -1:2. When forming the base of the crown apply the average shortening of the central conductor and main branches by one third of the annual growth length. This is necessary for a more compact arrangement of both the skeletal branches and the branches forming on them. In turn, the growing branches are not cut off. Before the tree enters the fructification, it is possible to allow some thickening of the crown. After all, each pruning affects the overall development of the plant.
Properly formed skeletal branches, in the future, you can achieve good harvests. At the same time, the larger the crown in the fruit tree, the stronger the skeleton should be. Special studies have shown that it is advisable to maintain the height of the apple tree on a strong-throated (seed) rootstock of 3 – 3.5 m, and an attempt to limit the height of the crown 2 – 2.5 m leads to a significant reduction in yield and increased costs of pruning. That is, to have small trees in the garden, it is necessary to plant seedlings, which are grafted on dwarf rootstock. Such plants are easier to care for and harvest from.
Photos of a young, well-formed garden
Depending on the variety of plant, its rootstock, fruiting can begin in the period from 3 to 6 years. In these years, after the formation of the skeleton, you only need to maintain the shape of the crown when trimming, trying to cut at a minimum.
Most of all, the plant needs to be properly trimmed after several large harvests. By this time, the trees usually reach and sometimes exceed their optimal size, and there is a trend towards periodicity of fruiting and reduction in the size of fruits. Most fruit trees, for the fourth year after the beginning of fruiting, need to make a short cut. Limitation of the crown size of fruit trees at this time does not affect the amount of harvest, improving its quality. It is believed that the simultaneous removal of up to 20% of the crown does not lead to a decrease in yield, as it is compensated by an increase in fertility and average weight of the fruit in the remaining part of the crown. As with ornamental shrubs, professional pruning leads to more abundant flowering.
Crown pruning starts with lowering its height by cutting out the central conductor over the last or penultimate skeletal branch, while shortening the most developed skeletal branches, thus maintaining the subordination of the main elements of the crown. Shortening of annual growths is not carried out.
Adult fruit-bearing trees
It can be said that for adult fruit-bearing trees, pruning is a tool to maintain the required crown size and ensure the high quality of the fruit. It is almost impossible to achieve trimming of the regular fruits by itself. Good results can be achieved when trimming is combined with pest and disease protection, flower thinning and ovarying. Do not forget to regularly feed the plants. Also of great importance are the characteristics of the variety and its tendency to periodic fruiting.
For example, in the case of stone crops, where the yield is primarily determined by the fertility of the fruit, and the trees of the main varieties do not reach a large size, pruning is more limited than in the case of seeds. In most cases, cherry trees, plums and cherry trees have a good crown naturally. And it only needs to be thinned periodically to get a harvest of large berries. Annual pruning of adult bone trees is not necessary. It is enough to periodically carry out rejuvenating or thinning trimming, when the length of annual growth will not exceed 15 20 cm. This also has a positive effect on the overall landscaping of the entire site.
Trim the old garden. The period of active fruit bearing in most fruit trees can last from ten to twenty years on average. Then the growth decreases, as well as the size of the fruit. Our caregivers often encounter a garden of this age, when customers do not know what to do with the plants. In this case, we need a cardinal rejuvenating cut. Cut or shorten most of the old skeletal branches and form a new crown of the newest young branches. It should be remembered that cuts of more than 3 cm in diameter should be covered with garden bubble. This procedure is comparable to shock therapy for plants, but it is almost impossible to achieve a good result without it. In the first year after pruning, the amount of harvest decreases, but the fruit is much larger. And in a year’s time, the abundance of yields can be restored. But you need to work well next spring on the young shoots, because after the cardinal trimming of the tree gives not only great fruits, but also long shoots. Two thirds of them are cut and the rest are shortened.
Remember, it is better to cut the gardens regularly every year.